Anatolia boukreev biography for kids
Anatoli Boukreev
Anatoli Nikoliavich Boukreev (January 16, - December 25, ) was a Russian climber who made seven ascents of 8, metre peaks without supplemental oxygen. Boukrev was relatively unknown in the international climbing community until the spring climbing season on Mount Everest, where eight people died in one of the biggest tragedies in the climbing history of Everest.
Boukreev was born on January 16, in the Urals of Russia. After completing high school in , he attended Chelabinsk University for Pedagogy in Russia where he majored in physics, and earned his Bachelor of Science degree in At the same time, he also completed a coaching program for cross-country skiing.
Everest
Boukreev was the lead climbing guide for the Mountain Madness expedition headed by Scott Fischer.
The expedition had eight clients whom each had paid somewhere in the vicinity of $65, USD for a fully guided summit attempt of Mt. Everest:
- Martin Adams (47)¹ - had climbed Aconcagua, Mount McKinley, Kilimanjaro
- Charlotte Fox (38) - had climbed all 54 14,' peaks in Colorado and two 8,m peaks
- Lene Gammelgaard (35) - accomplished mountaineer
- Dale Kruse (45) - personal friend of Fischer for many years, first to sign up
- Tim Madsen (33) - little experience at high altitude, lots on lower peaks
- Sandy Hill Pittman (41) - New York socialite looking to complete the Seven Summits
- Pete Schoening (68) - he had been part of a summit attempt on K2 (yet unclimbed at the time).
They turned back to save the life of a climber who had developed a blood clot.
Boukreev Killed on Annapurna(http://classic.mountainzone.com/news/boukreev-avalanche.html) This biography profiles his childhood, life, reign, achievements and timeline. Sign up to receive ExplorersWeb content direct to your inbox once a week. Despite all his ascents, Boukreev was humble. On December 6 , , Boukrev was awarded the David A.On the descent, Schoening likely saved the lives of five other climbers by a spectacular ice axe arrest when climbers began falling off, after one of them lost his balance.
- Klev Schoening (38) - Pete's nephew; former US national downhill ski racer, no 8,m experience
¹All ages given relative to
By May 5, Pete Schoening had decided not to make the final push to the summit while still at Everest base camp.
The team began the final assault on the summit by leaving base camp on May 6 with the plan to bypass Camp I and stop at Camp II for the night. However, when Boukreev reached Camp I, he found Dale Kruse in bad shape in one of the tents. Kruse was hoping to rest up, possibly spending the night there instead of going up to Camp II as planned.
When Boukreev reached Camp II, he reported Kruse's condition to Fischer and Fischer decided that Kruse had to go down. So Fischer descended to Camp I and took Kruse back down to base camp.
Boukreev had offered to take Kruse down but Fischer preferred to do it himself since Kruse was a personal friend.
Starting around midnight on May 10, Boukreev, Neil Beidleman (guide), Scott Fischer and Sherpas began guiding the six remaining clients to the summit, starting from Camp IV on the South Col (7,m/25,'). Boukreev, Beidleman and all six clients eventually reached the summit, but much later than what is considered a safe maximum turnaround time (typically 2pm).
Unnecessary delays at the south summit, caused by fixed ropes not being setup by the climbing sherpas by the time the team had reached that point, had cost the team more than one hour of daylight. Boukreev descended to Camp IV, after consulting with Fischer, ahead of the climbers to prepare tea and food upon their return. The storm that rolled in caused many difficulties on the descent, including several climbers getting lost and well off the normal descent route.
Boukreev and Krakauer debate the facts(http://classic.mountainzone.com/climbing/fischer/letters.html) This biography of K P Bhattarai provides detailed information about his childhood, life, political career, achievements and timeline. In the winter of , Boukreev was attempting to climb the south face of Annapurna I 8,m along with Simone Moro , an accomplished Italian mountaineer. In May , Boukreev was invited by an American climber to guide several clients to the summit of Denali in Alaska. Several attempts were made to reach the avalanche site by helicopter but inclement weather in late December prevented search teams from reaching Camp I.Fox, Madsen and Pittman managed to reach the South Col but were hopelessly lost in the storm and unable to determine the location of Camp IV. Boukreev heard about these lost climbers and managed to locate them huddled in a circle around 2am on May
Fischer did not reach the summit until pm on May Fischer was feeling ill (possibly suffering from HACE) and had totally exhausted himself on the ascent.
He was unable to descend below the South Summit (8,m/27,') due to his condition and the storm that had rolled in. On May 11, Boukreev made a solo rescue attempt but found Fischer's nearly frozen body at around 7pm. A memorial cairn for Fischer is located on the crest of a hill near Lobuche.
In January , Boukreev gave his expedition logs, personal journals, letters and memories to Gary Weston DeWalt who then collected all the information into a book called The Climb. Some of the facts provided in this book differ with the accounts offered in Jon Krakauer's book Into Thin Air. The Climb was also a response to some of the accusations made by Krakauer in his book concerning the decisions and actions by Boukreev -- e.g.
to descend to Camp IV before the clients.
On December 6, , Boukrev was awarded the David A. Sowles Memorial Award by the American Alpine Club for his heroism and devotion in rescuing the three lost climbers.
Annapurna
In the winter of , Boukreev was attempting to climb the south face of Annapurna I (8,m) along with Simone Moro, an accomplished Italian mountaineer.
They were accompanied by Dimitri Sobolev, a cinematographer from Kazakhstan, who was documenting the attempt.
Anatolia boukreev biography for kids He won several speed ascent competitions, including on Ismail Samani Peak and 5,m Elbrus. Sowles Memorial Award by the American Alpine Club for his heroism and devotion in rescuing the three lost climbers. Mountaineer Ed Viesturs commented on Boukreev in a interview: "Anatoli was just an amazing person," Viesturs recalled. Denali [ edit ].On December 25 around noon, Boukreev and Moro were fixing ropes in a couloir at around the 5,m (18,') level. Suddenly, a cornice broke loose from a ridge not visible from the climbing route. The resulting avalanche knocked Moro down the mountain where he landed just above their tent at Camp I (5,m/17,'). Fortuitously, Moro had somehow stayed near the top of the avalanche debris and managed to dig himself out after a few minutes.
See full list on academickids.com: Chelyabinsk State University. This biography provides detailed information about his childhood, life, political career, achievements and timeline. Born: AD Nepalese. Fox, Madsen and Pittman managed to reach the South Col but were hopelessly lost in the storm and unable to determine the location of Camp IV.
Unable to see or hear any signs of Boukreev or Sobolev, Moro descended to Annapurna base camp where he was flown by helicopter back to Kathmandu for surgery on his hands, which had been ripped down to the tendons during the fall.
News of the accident reached New Mexico on December Linda Wylie, Boukreev's girlfriend, left for Nepal on December Several attempts were made to reach the avalanche site by helicopter but inclement weather in late December prevented search teams from reaching Camp I.
There was some hope that perhaps Boukreev and Sobolev had managed to reach Camp I. However, on January 3, , searchers were finally able to reach Camp I and an empty tent. Linda Wylie subsequently issued a somber statement from Kathmandu:
"This is the end there are no hopes of finding him alive."
Climbing accomplishments
The major highlights of Boukreev's climbing career are as follows:
-
- October 7 Mt.
Everest - South Col route
- May 10 Dhaulagiri - new route on the west wall
- October 7 Mt.
Reference
The Climb by Anatoli Boukreev and Gary Weston DeWalt, published by St. Martins Paperbacks, , ISBN
External links
Categories: births | deaths | Climbers | Russian sportspeople